I think that since what happened in Gaza, the Iran war, and above all what is happening with the never-ending war and the disregard for us sane, human-loving, and kidnapped citizens, the entire attitude toward Israeli cooking in the world has undergone a dramatic change—and not for the better.
From the trendiest kitchens in New York, London, and Paris, we have become shunned out of disgust. The change is sharp and painful for me as an Israeli chef, of course, but it is beginning to feel like something that all of us in the Israeli culinary world need to take note of and generate bold and pointed discourse about. Is this truly culinary antisemitism, or legitimate political sanctions that every diner in the world who decides not to go to an Israeli restaurant is aware of…?
Will Israeli cooking become increasingly global in its flavors in order to blur its national identity? Will Israeli cuisine turn into Mediterranean cooking with Asian and Nordic influences?
Will we all give in to some new culinary identity that will disguise—or at least try to disguise—our old culinary nationalism?
As someone who was among the fathers of the local kitchen, I deal with what is happening here in the kitchens with great interest, and sometimes with great joy at the change the new generation brings with it, at the globality in its flavors, and at the new techniques that sweep us toward a multinational horizon that escapes a narrow definition.
What is happening now is a tectonic shift in Israeli cuisine—and that is a good thing.
Erez Komarovsky is an Israeli chef, baker, and educator who pioneered artisanal bread in Israel and focuses on seasonal, local, and Mediterranean-inspired cuisine.